Last June, The Hub and I were discussing on having a short getaway, whilst being able to do some hiking and get fit at the same time.
After some researching and deliberating between Fraser's Hill and Cameron Highlands, both in Malaysia, we decided on Fraser's Hill. Fraser's Hill is a highland resort located at the state of Pahang. It is less touristy and populated, as compared to the other highland resorts of Genting Highlands and Cameron Highlands. We would like a little relaxation trip while at the same time challenge ourselves a little, climbing the terrains.
There are many hiking trails at Frasers Hill. Pine Tree trail that leads to the Pine Tree Hill is named the most challenging, while the rest are pretty short, direct trails.
Pine Tree hill summits at around 1500m. The trail was known to have been used by the British to reach the mountain peak to gain the view of the surrounding mountains in the colonial days. The altitude of the trail head is approximated to be around 1300m, thus hikers gain an elevation of less than 200m on the 5.5km long hiking trail. Though the distance covered is not that long nor is the total elevation gained, the trail is reputed to have lots of ups and downs, the climax being the cliff to negotiate before hitting the 1st peak. I decided to challenge my guts a little, having seen the pictures and others' blogs about the challenge not being the cliff itself, but rather, the unforgiving up and down steep steps.
After leafing through the numerous recommended accommodations on Fraser's Hill, we decided that The Smokehouse will be the one for us, despite its price being considerably much higher than the rest. The Smokehouse atmosphere looks (from online researches) soooo beautiful, relaxing and countryside. I really was looking forward to a much needed relaxing and calm respite from the crazy workload, both mental and physical at that time.
Another write-up will be done on The Smokehouse as it really deserves a page of its own. The rest of the text here mainly describes our hiking day on Pine Tree Trail.
The Beginning
The resort had not yet started serving breakfast as it was still too early. We had to request for some simple toasts and coffee before our exercise. It was a cool and crisp morning - we were greeted by the early birds of the morning with their beautiful chirps and springing quick movements. Boy! Sitting alfresco in this lovely terrace of The Smokehouse, sipping coffee, enjoying the morning breeze with lovely beautiful flying creatures around us was just too lovely! I promised myself that I would thoroughly enjoy my breakfast on the same spot the next morning, when we do not need to hurry off to climb. Luckily, the weather was beautifully clear and good for the outdoors, in contrast to the day before's, when it rained non-stop and was super cold.
After breakfast and final packing in our cottage, we looked ready for our "battle" -- it's just a day hike but our bags were superbly prepared (haha!), we lugged off to meet our hiking guide - Mr Yin Fook at the lobby. A middile-aged man with some grays greeted us. We set off in his car to the trail head...
The Start
Mr Yin Fook remarked how big and packed our bagpacks were and handed us a bottle of 1.5L water each. He was happy that the weather was good since it rained throughout the afternoon and evening the day before. And so we started off. The time was around 8 in the morning. Good time. And the trail head sign read:
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| Entrance of Trail |
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| Beginning - All Smiles :) |
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| Flat trail at the start... not for long |
The start of the trail was a relatively flat dirt path, dropping down to dense vegetation on its side. Lots of ferns grew in the foliage. This path was not to be easy for long as soon, a descent in concrete steps began. Pine Tree trail differs from other mountain trails in the sense that it starts with a steep descent before a series of ascents and descents, compared to the usually constant ascending trail on others.
While I had wanted to breathe in the surroundings properly and capture them with my phone camera, Mr Yin Fook had set the pace very brisk and chatted with me throughout the walk. I had to keep up moving and was not able to stop much, other than rest stops. Some of the downward steps were pretty steep. At certain sections, however, ropes were hung and secured for hikers to navigate the terrain more safely.
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| Many Ferns found along the trail |
After of about an hour or so into our journey, we came to our first rest spot - titled (by me) " The Cave in A Tree". A BIG TREE whose massive roots looked like they have uprooted somehow and thus created hollows in between which look like a cave.
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| The "Tree Cave" |
Near the natural structure was a man-made erect which read:
We had much needed breather and water. After which, Mr Yin Fook led the way again back on the trail.
His pace was really quick, probably wanting to reach the peak earlier and make the return trip in time before dusk. We were to take the same trail back to where we had started, and I was amazed that I was walking at such a fast speed and keeping up with his chats all the way! He told us about his other hiking trips and adventures. We also exchanged political and social lives in our countries. The trail was pretty quiet throughout and we thought we had the entire forest to ourselves until... a group of hikers walked past us.
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| Ups again after downs |
We came to this section whereby we were told by the other gorup that there was a short cut, a little steep slope section instead of a long winding path down. Mr Yin Fook told me to try it and to be confident. -- ok not too bad with help and I managed to half climb, half tumble down ungracefully. On the way back at this section, they had to push my bum up haha! There were many fallen logs along the way and some of their trunk widths were so wide that I had to virtually climb up on them first before climbing down, instead of straddling over them directly.
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| One of many fallen logs |
At about 11+ am, we came to this "well-known" landmark on Pine Tree trail, which I had read about and doubted my ability to overcome. It looked like a 3 or even 4 storey high level rock cliff with roots and some shrubs growing on it. Two ropes hung down over the structure. After conquering it and a little more distance, one would have reached the first peak.
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| Cliff section after 5km mark. Virtually vertical |
What the heck I had to do it anyway. Going up is always easier for me than going down. I surveyed it and made mental notes on where and which spots I would place my feet and hand grips on.
Mr Yin Fook decided that - based on his observations on me that I lacked confidence- he would carry my bagpack for me whicle I scale on the rock face without extra weights other than my own.
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| Our guide had climbed up to take a picture of us |
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| Starting to go up ---- Roots please stay strong and stable for me! |
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| Scaling rocks |
With ropes and roots to hold onto, it was not too bad - at times following our guide's expert instructions on where and how to go up. Except for certain sections whereby I really had to haul myself up (I'm glad I had accumulated quite reasonable arm strength from my years of handling kids) and that certain sections those leg muscles had to be stretched hard to reach the next level, whose height difference could be very wide.
I finally reached the top and felt a sense of achievement that I did it myself without being handheld (as compared to the Rinjani climb)
A little further up to go, and we reached the first peak. The sign read 1448m. We had reached it in about 3 hours plus. To continue to the second peak, one has to walk a little further. The group which had passed us were already there, resting. They were getting ready to conquer the twin peak as we tried to find a spot to settle down for a well-deserved rest. After getting one of them to take some photos of us at the height marker, they bade us goodbye and moved off.
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| Barren peak |
I sat down on the bald patch and removed my hiking boots to ease and relax my feet. Some bees were buzzing around and Mr Ying Fook told us that those bees were harmless. He whipped out his camping equipment to boil water and asked us if we would like to have coffee! He even had cups with him! What a pleasant surprise!
Another surprise~ I got stung by the bees...
The Hub sprayed some insect repellent on the bitten spot on my leg and though the stung area was really painful, it quickly subsided - didn't know that repellent repels small sting swells too!
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| Our guide boiling water and making coffee for us! |
Mr Yin Fook pointed out that we could see where we had come from earlier where the resorts were and that we could also see Genting Highlands from this spot on a clear weather day. He pointed out the the horizon where we had crossed some ridges and there were the buildings! Clouds lined the horizon. We had in fact just covered a mere 5km distance thus far... The mountain range was beautiful to behold.
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| Clouds in the horizon |
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| Titiwangsa Range |
I needed to pee and being familiar with outdoor bush peeing after our last experience, went off to find a nice spot to answer the call of nature with the hub keeping a watch. The peak here was really bare., except for the signs and some wild plants. There was not a pine tree to be seen - Mr Yin Fook told us that trees have probably been cut down long ago. There was not much shade over the little patch of flat ground and if the sun were out strong, we could be baked quite relentlessly.
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| Nice bush spot for peeing??? |
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| The forest vegetation around |
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| Wild flowers |
After settling our bladders, we needed to settle our rumbling tummies and we sat down to munch on our buns we bought in KL with Mr Yin Fook's freshly made 3-in-1 coffee. He also offered us some crackers from Scotland which a friend had given him. It was close to noon then.
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| Coffee - Done! |
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| Pumpkin seed Cracker from Scotland |
I decided that we should not continue to the twin peak at 1500m cos I could feel that my thighs and leg muscles were quite well spent - and needed the rest of the energy to go back. So after about an hour of lunch break we decided to make our way back to the trail head.
Going down was scary -- my utmost fear. The Hub decided that I should be attached with a makeshift harness with a rope that he could hold onto, in case I slip, trip or fall, he could catch hold of me. He had packed all these tools in his bag in case I needed it. Hence the big backpack... Mr Yin Fook thought it was a good idea. Reluctantly I agreed although it would make me look foolish and incompetent...
And so with one end of the rope attached to the belt on my waist and the other end in The Hub's hand, I turned around to face the rock face while I gently lowered myself down, step by step, at the same time instructing the Hub to lengthen the rope--- oh ya, my bag still with Mr Yin Fook of course haha!
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| Start of going down - I had extra protection |
Looking down was scary and at certain sections, I was not sure if my feet were able to reach those crevices and spots to land while my arms were tightly grabbing (onto my life) on another part of the rope or root. Going up was much easier although more strength was needed!
Phew I finally stepped onto safe ground! My legs were tired and started to get wobbly, The Hub whipped out our hiking sticks for better control and support for the return journey. I got my bag pack back from Mr Yin Fook.
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| Cliff conquered |
Certian sections were familiar but some parts seemed to be new - probably due to the tiredness and focus waning. I spotted this insect, which I had thought was a fruit of a plant on the first leg. Now it could be seen moving! What a clever camouflaging insect!
The weirdly angled logs greeted us again.. I had to scramble under some cos my legs were tired and I could not confidently stride over them powerfully with one swift move that could guarantee my balance.
We took a water break and surprisingly, I was hungry again and I wolfed down an energy bar, while Mr Yin Fook sucked on his honey stick.
Going up the steps were easier than climbing down steps, especially when my thighs and knees were tired. My Yin Fook advised that small steps will take less energy out of my body when he observed that I was making big strides to speed up.
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| What goes down must come up -- A rule of mountain hiking |
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| Fallen logs again - this particular one is obstructing the narrow pathway that drops down steep on the right |
Ouch! I had slammed my leg against a log when crossing over it -- I thought it should go over perfectly, but due to the fatigue, my judgement lacked and my leg muscles were not as compliant as the brain would have wanted it. Ok, sustained a bruise.
As we were climbing up the long flight of steps where we first descended on the way in, Mr Yin Fook brought our attention to some tock tock sounds.
"A woodpecker".
What really? I had never seen a woodpecker in the wild before!
"It's up there" He pointed up a very tall -- rather a cluster of very tall trees.
It was very difficult to spot -- but after some keen looking, I spotted regular to and fro motions among the woods, along with the pecking sounds :) Fantastic! I thought.
Further up the trail, I caught sight of an information board in a broken pondok (shelter) with some marker marks.
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| I thought this was really funny! |
Another board informed visitors of wildlife one can spot on the trail -- how come I did not see these boards on the way in? And neither were we able to spot most of the wildlife as highlighted on the board.
And finally, we made the last step up and onto that flat terrain when we first entered upon.
I could feel the coolness of the air.
We made it out of the trail. It was about 4.15pm. We took about 8hrs plus to complete the whole hike in total!
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| We're out! |
My Yin Fook remarked how lucky we were to have hiked in such a lovely weather and indeed it was! I could smell our well worked out sweaty bodies and yet I could feel the cold clean air once we stepped out and relaxed our footsteps!
I finally spotted a lone cone on the ground - what an irony.
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| The lone pine cone on Pine Tree Trail |
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| Wild Lalang |
We then made our way to Mr Yin Fook's car as he showed us the different holiday bungalows.
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| Walking past the TM Bungalow |
Mr Yin Fook then drove us out of the trail road and introduced some of the landmarks as we toured a little in the small Fraser's Hill town. He also took some photos of us around the landmarks.
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| Landmark clock tower |
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| Fraser's Hill Golf Course |
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| Puncak Inn in the background |
We went for a little "Yum-Cha" in a Chinese kopitiam near the cluster of eateries before he sent us back to the The Smokehouse.
We bade goodbyes and exchange well wishes and agreed that we would look for him if we go on our next hike in Malaysia.
We are gonna have a good wash up in this cold weather and have some rest before a well deserved meal tonight. Stay in tune in the next entry on our lovely cottage stay in The Smokehouse and rest of our holiday on Fraser's Hill.
Note: Beautiful photos of us in action and of both of us, were taken by Mr Yin Fook our guide. Much appreciation to him and his service!
Mr Yin Fook's hiking services could be engaged on https://www.withlocals.com/host/yf-chong/
