Trekking on Mount Rinjani Senaru Crater Rim

"I cant go on anymore...". I quavered to the Hub.

"Ok, then you climb down." came the tart reply.

I knew I had no way down except to go up, and up. But how could I manage? - was the thought that flashed throughout my mind. My hands were wet and slippery from perspiration mixed with both heat and fear. With each gingerly step I took upon the pile of rocks, looming endlessly at fearful inclination, I could feel my legs tremble.

"How am I suppose to go down tomorrow?"

"Focus only on going up now!" 

The Hub had to discipline me, or I would not have pushed myself nor cleared my psychological hurdle. Somewhere among this rocky trail between the sky and the sea at 2,500m above sea level, I realised, and confirmed my dreaded suspicion: I DO HAVE A FEAR FOR HEIGHTS.

I could not muster courage to turn my head and look at the astounding surrounding landscape and view from my vantage point. Luckily I had my cap on, to block out distant vision. The more I looked up to where our destination belonged, the more dismal I got, as sight of rocks upon rocks did not seem to end.

It was the second day of our climb on Mount Rinjani. 

Our target: Senaru Crater Rim.

If fit and good enough, head down the steep trail to the lake and hot spring, and back to the crater rim for an overnight camp before descending to base camp the next day. I had told the Hub on the night of packing for our three days, two nights trek, that I was confident of reaching the crater rim. All this arrogance despite the briefing by Mr Awenk, the former porter-guide-turned owner of the trekking company, Awenk Adventures, of the difficulty of this journey and that some of us might not make it -based on his rich experience.

At this point of the journey, I was humbled tremendously and doubted myself.

I focused on placing each foot on the rocks as carefully as I could, at times making sure it wasn't slippery before exerting my weight on them for the foothold to take place and prepare for the next.... It took forever and ever... A Caucasian couple descended effortlessly while edging us on, with the lady telling us it was all worth it - she had cried nine times upon witnessing the beauty up there... We had met may trekkers along our journey, from different countries - there were Caucasians, Mainland Chinese, Japanese, Malaysians, etc .

I saw Nemo and Flo right ahead and above us, finding the best steps on the wide rocky landscape up. Our guide had told us, "You see where easy you go...". Thankfully for our guide - I was highly dependent on him. When every step seemed impossible, he would hold my hand and lead the way - I could only place my blind faith in him as there were times when there seemed to be no footholds at all - and I just held onto his hand tightly, though slippery with perspiration and scree. When he was not available, I had to rely on the Hub. I did not know when they would slip and fall as well (Hey you never know!). This trip was my greatest test of my faith and trust on fellow human beings ... My first trek up a mountain proper, and an active volcano it is.

Base Camp

We had started on this journey two days ago. After a long and winding ride up the slopes of Senaru, Lombok, we finally reached our Eco Lodge - Rinjani Base Camp - in which we were to spend the night before our trek the next day. Climbing Mount Rinjani was supposed to be the highlight of the Lombok leg of our "Best of Jogja and Lombok Trip". (See the Jogja leg of our journey on The Best of Jogja and Lombok ~ Jogja! and Beautiful Lombok).

The air was fresher and chillier as compared to the humidity where we were, during our cultural sightseeing some hours before with Awenk, our guide in Lombok. To our surprise, he turned out to be the owner of this lodge! :) Funny was he all along and we didn't know he was taking us up to HIS lodge. It was a simple, yet clean lodge with a homely ambience. He gave us our room keys and we settled into the rooms. After a short rest, we were to get ready for our walk to the waterfall, Sendang Gile.

We wore just sandals as we were told that it was an easy walk. We walked up the road, passing many other lodges that housed trekkers taking the Senaru route up to Rinjani. After a short walk led by a tall, lanky man, who would be our Rinjani trekking guide the next day, we reached the entrance of the pathway that would lead us to the waterfall. We walked down stretch of steps at times, winding, but generally it was a very well-formed path. We heard some thundering splashes of water and we knew we were nearing the waterfall.

Two-Tiered Sendang Gile Waterfalls

The water in the stream was flowing at a very fast speed

It was indeed quite a magnificent sight as the waters dropped thunderously into the stream below. The waters were believed to have healing powers. We walked around and took photos and washed our faces with the cold water from the stream. Our guide told us that these waters helped to irrigate the coffee and fruit plantations further up the slopes of Senaru. After some photo worthy moments, we walked back up to base camp.

Mr Awenk's Eco Lodge, Rinjani Base Camp

Dinner was served "buffet style". We could help ourselves to the simple yet delicious local fare of white rice, curried vegetables, fried omelettes, chicken wings, etc. The keropok was the most delicious, all of us agreed, as with the bananas.

Tucking into dinner at Rinjani Base Camp. Photo by Awenk Adventures.

The humorous and easygoing Awenk briefed us on the trek after that, with a large map and a metal pointer (He is really a comical guy haha). As he explained the trail, we began to get uptight as it was not as "easy" as we were "told" by the internet, "a suitable trek for beginners, good for children, and families, etc". He went to on to point out some of us who might not make it (Gasps!) The trek down from the crater rim to the lake was no easy feat with steep and slippery ground hence he advised us to go only if we were capable enough. He decided that we were to camp on the crater rim instead of camping at the lake as was originally planned. He also emphasized that there was no way a helicopter could land up in the mountains. In case of emergency, the only way down - if we couldn't - was to be carried down by the porters. Hui and I exchanged glances. No wonder we could not find any photos of the trail down the to the lake - the terrain must be too steep for trekkers to take photos! We also suspected that the short hike to the waterfalls earlier was to gauge out fitness levels haha!


We went back to our rooms to pack our bags which were to carried for the next three days during the trek - tough choice on what to include and what not to, as we would like to be well-prepared, yet afraid of the load throughout the journey into the wilderness.


Lights out and we tried to sleep after that. It was tough trying to sleep with both excitement and anxiety infiltrating the mind and heart. The geckos around were not helping much - they happily frolicking on the headboards on the bed.

Rinjani Base Camp Lodge in the evening

Our Room

The Beginning

In the morning, all of us woke up early, washed up - we had all washed our hair again in the morning as we knew our hair (nor bodies) would be washed for the next two nights.
Breakfast was banana pancake with toasts (which we would have for the next two days as well), and a choice of coffee or tea.

Mount Rinjani's peak spotted from the lodge in the clear morning light.

Sunrise view from the lodge

The Hub in front of the mountain map which Awenk had explained to us the night before.

After breakfast we finalised on our packing, and gathered our extra luggage be stored in Mr Awenk's office. The guide and porters were very kind to carry the 1.5 litre water bottles for us - we would just need to carry what we needed, then refill our bottles from their load along the way. We set off in the back of a pick up as the cool morning breeze brushed against our fresh eager faces.

Slapping sunblock on our faces.

The pickup stopped at the Information Centre, where all hikers were to leave details on a log book and collect the trekking permit, which is a tag to be attached to our bag packs. Mr Awenk gave us his best wishes on a safe and successful trip and off we set to conquer the crater rim and lake of the active Mount Rinjani!

Walking past the Information Centre.

Trekking Permit and Pass. Photo Credit: Nemo.

We first passed through some coffee and fruit plantations and huts where the farmers lived. Along the way, we saw children playing beyond the fenced village on the sides. The path was slopping but fine.

The beginning of the trek - gentle slopes through plantations and villages

When we remarked to our guide Kareem that this lady was invincible with the load on her head at her age, he told us that she was not in the sound mind and always walked up and down this path.

We walked on for what seemed like around half an hour to forty-five minutes before we reached a little kampung hut of a simple provision shop that sold coke and snacks. Our guide Kareem suggested us to have a short rest. It then struck us in the head like a lightning bolt, as we saw this signboard some distance away:

We had only just reached what was the Senaru gateway to Mount Rinjani. HAHA!!! The guide smiled in his usual quiet demeanor and offered us some biscuits. I went to the bushes to pee my first "bush-pee" of the numerous in the days to come. I drank some water and mouthed a piece of mini Mars bar and then we continued our journey through the gate.

The Forest

I would think that this part of the trail was my forte, as I have hiked a numerous time up and down and around our very dear Bukit Timah Hill in Singapore. Many times solo hikes. But take note: It is but a HILL. Rinjani, after all is a mountain, a real MOUNTAIN, AN ACTIVE VOLCANO. While researching on it, I had thought it would be a little tougher than our local hill, which stands at 164m.
Well, the forest part was not too tough, though the terrain could be steep and slippery at times, very long distance indeed and we took numerous breaks. But it was doable - my favourite part of the trail in fact - to climb UP but I could not say the same for the descent two days later.

The entire climb was sectioned into different stations - POS I, POS Extra, POS II, and III.
We took a break at POS I and it was then that we realised how much our porters had to carry. Bananas, vegetables, water, cooking utensils, other foods, even chairs and that's not all. True to what I had read from others' accounts, they all wore slippers and treaded on the path easily. Our guide had proper sports shoes though and that was evidence that guides are paid more than porters. Most trekking guides had started off as porters.

The porters' loads

I wondered aloud how our clothing were not soaked with perspiration as we climbed, and even the bag pack did not feel like a burden. As we gained altitude, the air was getting cooler and the moment we stopped and relaxed, we would feel cold, and needed a jacket. This was probably why I needed to pee a lot while exercising, in contrast to the same activity in the lowlands.


We finally rested at a clearing for lunch. We had passed many trekking groups who were already breaking for lunch and we had wondered when it would be our turn. Hurray! We had foldable chairs to sit on while waiting for our lunch to be prepared and served. Our guide Kareem helped with the cooking. It seemed that he was the main cook, as we would notice over the next two days.


Our lunch was a simple meal of instant noodles, and plain rice as well as fruits, served on a picnic mat. Bananas were a staple for our meals - likely to provide the energy that we would need. We were served hot tea while waiting for the food to be cooked. We all wolfed down our noodles and had rice in our leftover soup. Whatever food that we did not finish (that could be eaten, the guide would offer to the porters). I saw the porters picking up the emptied seasoning powder packets from the ground and all rubbish from our picnic mat was gathered. I felt glad that we had chosen a trekking company that cared for nature and the mountain. As we would encounter along the trail, rubbish IS a concern on Mount Rinjani - especially the non-biodegradable ones.


We continued on our journey, with a few quick rest stops. Only that the knees and legs were getting tired. But after each rest stop, they seemed to function well again. The last rest station that we finally reached was POS III for a rest, before we were to embark on the so called "Savannah" part of the climb. At this point we could see what looked like mist floating from the forest where we came through. They were actually clouds - we were already with and above the clouds! The porters had gone off to collect spring water. I was very curious to see how the source looked like actually. It was the main source of water that our team provided for us and used to prepare our food. We had already reached around 2,000m above sea level. Before starting on the savannah trail, Kareem prepared me that it was going to be a little steep and slippery.... Argh! SLIPPERY? One of my worst fears...

Look at this little boy who could not be more than ten years old. He followed the porters and at times helped guided the way. Though he did not understand nor speak much English, He literally "walked" up the mountain like a Pro, in his slippers.

The clouds had reached us, or we had reached them? The start of the Savannah trail.

The Savannah

The first part of the trail was not too bad. Yes a little slippery but I could still manage.

Kareem, our guide, with the spring water collected.

Then the terrain became more challenging.

Nemo had a fall and kind of hurt her ankle. I got the ointment out and gave her some to rub on it. The Hub offered to carry her backpack and zipped off - without me...

Kareem the usual quiet hero asked if she was still able to walk and proceeded to ask his porters and himself included, to find some branches to be cut into sticks for our use. This was the beginning of the challenging steep and slippery ascent, and even with the stick, I struggled.

Hui and Cheng were really steady, plodding on and up with their hiking sticks. Flo, Nemo and I were using our natural sticks and edging one another up. Kareem would disappear then reappear as he tried to take care of all of us. At this point of time, we three ladies were being led by the little boy, no more than ten or eleven years old, whom had been with the porters, helping to carry equipment, quietly and watching over us as he climbed up each step with agility - like it was mere flat ground to walk on. With help from my friends and my new found pal - The Stick - I clambered on. 

A distant view of the Savannah landscape. Photo Credit: Flo

Nemo and I trying to go up and up without slipping. Photo Credit: Flo

The Hub finally realised he had abandoned me - or did he regret so - and waited for me, helping me on for the rest of the journey. It was really not easy for me on this part of the trail due to my fear of slipping (since young- I was the frequent "faller" - or rather epic slip-slider). I usually took the steeper alternative way up , having to grab the Hub's hand and hauled myself up to the next step, in the process, scratching my skin.

With the last step of steep effort, we found ourselves on flatter ground - a small clearing with a little pavilion- which could be the former POS III Extra, I would read about later on.

Our tents set up.

Kareem explained that as it was late and that there were already no good spots to set up tents at the crater rim, it was advised that we camp here for the night. At our speed of hiking, by the time we reached the crater rim - which would take another 100+m - we would probably not find any place to have our tents set. The plan was to set off for Senaru Crater Rim on the next morning. We rested on the pavilion, taking off our shoes and shaking off dust and sand that had accumulated in them. 

Shoes! Who in the world would suggest trekkers tackling Rinjani to simply wear sports shoes, other than the marvelous porters who could with their slippers? I was wearing my running shoes and found the grip inadequate. A pair of hiking shoes with good grip is definitely needed.

Kareem and the porters were setting up our tents while our group chit-chatted and compared whose shoes were dirtier. I changed into my slippers as I could not stand wearing the soiled socks and shoes anymore. Lesson learnt -- NO WHITE clothing and footwear while doing serious hiking/trekking. The sun was setting and it was getting cold.

Sun setting over the grassland. This to be tackled the next day? Didn't look too difficult right?

What laid above our campsite for the night.

Look at the clouds below! We were above them from where we came from.

A few of us went to do our bush-peeing as the toilet tent was still being set up. We ladies had to help shield one another as another group of hikers had also set up their tents on a higher ground than ours.

The sunset was breathtaking! We quickly rushed to the vantage points to capture the spectacle of fading rays. We started to shiver, It was really getting COLD.

Sunset from our campsite, at POS III Extra.

When the first tents were up, we took turns to go into them, change, freshen up with wet wipes and got into cleaner and warmer wears. The ground was stony and slopping.

Dinner was fried rice with fried chicken, omelette, a banana and an orange. I gave my chicken to the Hub. Hot tea which was the most suitable in this cold evening was served to us too. I loved how the meals were served in proper crockery, with fine arrangements in this wilderness. Even the cup of tea was on a saucer. The Hub and I decided to sit outside next to the pavilion to have our dinner, under the beautiful starlit sky. At 2,500m above sea level, the stars were really different and the most beautiful on Mount Rinjani. We could see lights from Senaru village where we set foot from.

Flo, Nemo, Cheng and Hui decided to huddle together in a tent to have their dinner. Flo and I agreed that the fried rice was really fantastic!

Superbly done up fried rice at an altitude! Photo Credit: Hui.

I did not use the toilet tent that night as I felt uncomfortable having to navigate uneven terrain in the dark... preferring to let the Hub accompany me to the what was left of a camp fire that was just a few steps from our tent to relieve myself. Undressing to do business in the cold night, au naturel, was a real novel yet freezing experience.

The Toilet Tent. Answering to the call of nature, in nature is such an experience.

We turned in early in our own tents and tried to sleep with difficulty as the ground was really uncomfortable, despite having a layer of mattress under our sleeping bags. The cold weather added to the discomfort and the Hub was having some breathing difficulty. It was probably due to the altitude.
I held my pee the whole night and tried to keep myself as warm as possible -- on my first night on the slopes of Majestic Mount Rinjani.

The Rocks

Reluctant to wake up in the cold the following morning, I struggled up only when I heard my friends' voices all around me. The unwashed hair stuck out repulsively as I staggered out of my tent and put on my damp and dirty shoes to try out the toilet tent. It took some getting used to as the winds blew the flaps of the rectangular enclosure, threatening to expose one's butt. Using the feet, we were to kick some dry sand to freshen the wet and soiled ones in the deep pit once nature's call is done.

We had our breakfast of two slices of toast, banana pancakes and a cup of hot tea before packing our bags to set off for the Crater Rim that we did not reach the day before. Just as we got ready to make the final climb, the porters were dismantling the tents. I secretly hoped that they would not notice my poop which I had delivered in the toilet tent a while ago. Surprisingly, my bowels were doing very well, even better on the mountains than at home.

Our breakfast/ Photo Credit: Hui.

Plates nicely arranged breakfast on the pavilion.

Again, I was told that this final stretch to the crater rim was no rosy path. Kareem told me that it was going to be "a bit difficult". And oh my indeed as the whole area was exposed with rocky surfaces to negotiate with using only my pathetic pair of running shoes, a fear for the altitude, and the timidity in me!
This part of the climb challenged my fear of altitude, my strength in both body and mind, and taught me how humble we humans should be, against Mother Nature. THIS WAS TRUE FEAR. I learnt about my weaknesses, the trust in human touch (literally!) and also trusting in myself.

Finally I saw flatter ground, albeit very narrow, after surmounting the last part of the rocky stretch.  I still had to hold onto the Hub cos next to us would be a fall tumbling down to your demise, if you're unlucky enough. 

Senaru Crater Rim Finally!

I finally heard the golden words:
"We're here. It's really beautiful!"
Nemo and Flo had reached first. My eyes sighted two big picture boards erected in front of a green railing, over which rests the alluring blue lake Anak Segara, and in it a visibly active cone. I was feeling more of a relief than in excitement. I was still recovering from the pounding heartbeats of fear - and the disbelief - that I could fear that much!

It took me a while to recover my wits to take in the surrounding beauty. It was surreal. We could see two birds flying in the horizon (Birds fly this high?). And we found it an unbelievable feat that we could actually walk from the little patch of greenery we could see below to thus far and high. Kareem pointed out to us in the horizon, the sea, and the Gilli Islands sitting in a nicely arranged row. He also pointed out Mount Agung that is in Bali. How wonderful this place is!

The two pictorial boards explain the historical formation of this volcano and 
how nature has sculptured this beauty landscape.

Where the clouds were was the sea and the cone in the distant, Mount Agung in Bali.

Mount Agung in the distance

I really owed it to my natural hiking stick which Kareem had cut and carved for me.
 (Mine was the straighter stick)

There the steaming volcano cone lies with the lake surrounding it in tranquility. At the top of the massive structure, nestling as the backdrop of the volcano and lake is Rinjani's peak.  The picturesque landscape just stood there, oblivious to the foreign visitors ooh-ahhing over it. I realised how small and insignificant we humans are - though we are such ego-boosting species - compared to the nature phenomenon. We can never beat nature. I was humbled, thoroughly.

All these sparks of inspiration struck while a gentle discussion was going on about where to set up camp. There ahead lies a taller hill, which promised a much more spectacular view of the lake. My heart sank. You mean I had to CLIMB UP on the STEEP AND SLIPPERY SLOPE AGAIN?!?

I told the Hub to pull me up, which he did and I did, land on the campsite for the day and night.

What! Go up again?! Look at how steep it is! Without hearing my inner protest,
the porters were setting up the tents...

Indeed the view was so much better than the original spot. One could see the entire caldera carved out by nature. We had a closer view of the peak here, and wondered how and if we could see the fit trekkers attempt the summit the next morning. The fit Hub and Flo decided to give the lake and hotspring a go. Kareem told some of his porters to get ready with cooking utensils to go down with them, and he would stay back with us at campsite to cook lunch for the remaining four of us - there was a new porter and he had yet to learn how to cook. He reminded the Hub and Flo to bring torch lights and headlamps and that running and jumping were not allowed. It was to be a very steep climb down to the lake and the hotspring some 600m below.  The rest of us dared not make this attempt.

I was still searching for answers on how to get back down to base camp tomorrow from this spot, secretly wishing for a helicopter to take come rescue me.

Smoke coming out from the cone.

While Kareem and porter were preparing for lunch, we sat on the set up chairs to admire the view, trying to observe if the big patches of clouds actually drift pass the cone and lake. It was my first time seeing a live volcano cone so near. Everything was so serene.

The Porters' Tent

Kareem preparing for lunch.

Lunch for the day was rice with vegetable salad in peanut sauce. (something like gado gado).

By then the sun was scorching hot. I was feeling so sleepy. Kareem and his porters had gone to sleep in their big flimsy tent. It was the start of their fasting month. I tried to sleep in my tent too... but the sun was simply glaring down so fiercely on me. I put on my shades and tried again. I did doze off but the heat was unbearable. In the end I got up and joined Nemo, Cheng and Hui in the picnic chairs again.
When the clouds began to cover our location, the chills came, so chilling that we needed to put on our jackets. But when the clouds were gone and the sun exposed, it became scorching hot. This alternating hot and cold repeated till late afternoon-evening.

There was nothing much the rest of us girls could do except to chit chat, snap pictures and simply breathed in the views... At times we were totally blocked by the clouds and the sea and greenery disappeared.

Finally, we saw the little boy who had gone with them return. The Hub followed next and we were shocked that he actually came back so quickly. He told us Flo was below on the way back with the rest of the porters. He had reached first with the little boy as his guide. The Hub told us they had instant noodles as lunch. He had developed a headache and needed panadols. While resting, Flo came back. The Hub related that the journey down was treacherous and Flo had, for a moment, lost confidence in her knees.

As the evening clouds were closing in, the air was obviously chillier. The evening hot tea came at the right time. We sat at 2640m above sea level, drinking tea and taking in the beauty. The volcano and lake laid as obliviously as they were.

What a view and a nice way to enjoy a late afternoon tea.

Many tents were dotting the opposite landscape where we first set foot on this morning. We could see that many of the hikers had reached the crater rim and setting up tents with their teams. More and more tents appeared. We even spotted a few dogs! Gosh! Dogs climb mountains. They probably followed the trekkers up as there was food.

Tents dotting the mountain. Our dear boy boy looking at them.

Sunset was closing in. A few of the hikers climbed up to our campsite to take in the sights as well as pictures. In the horizon, the sun was setting beautifully. I have never seen such beautiful sunset before.

After the sun went completely down, the temperature dropped tremendously - it felt like it was winter. We had to quickly change to our warmth. Hub was having a bad headache.

Sunset glows on Mount Rinjani.

A Toilet Tent can look very picturesque too in a beautiful natural setting .

Dinner of white rice and curry vegetables and chicken was served to our tent. This time, it was too cold to sit outside. I could not bear to be out for more than 10-15 minutes.

Curried vegetables with chicken. Photo credit: Hui.

Lights out and we tried as best to sleep again. It was extremely difficult. I wondered how long I could sustain in my sleep after I drifted off. The wind was extraordinarily strong. I was often woken up the flapping of our tent in the wind. I was so afraid that our tent would fly off and kept opening my eyes to check if we were exposed to the elements. This did not help by the urgent need to pee. I kept my eyelids tightly down and kept as warm as possible by zipping my sleeping bag close to my neck and covered myself with whatever warm shields I had. Thanks to Nemo's thermal pants, they probably kept me warmer than the night before. Thinking that the night temperature would be around 15 degrees as suggested by the internet researches done before the trip, I had packed warm clothing to the minimal. I had on me three layers on top and two layers below. Cold. Still cold.

Closer view of Mount Barujari within the Segara Anak Lake. Photo Credit: The Hub.

Hotspring. Photo Credit: The Hub.

The view on the way down to the lake and hotspring. Photo Credit: The Hub.

I was woken up by the sounds outside. The Hub returned to our tent and told me that the toilet tent was destroyed by the winds last night. Oh no I desperately needed the toilet tent and I could go no bush peeing here as:

I) It was too cold.
II) There was no thick bushes over here on this exposed knoll unless one goes squatting on the slopes - which I dared not. I waited and waited till the tent was fixed.

Queuing up to use the toilet tent in the morning before our descent. Photo Credit: Flo.

Breakfast was still banana pancakes with toast and hot tea. This was the third consecutive pancakes-toast breakfast, since base camp. We noticed that the pancakes were getting less and less bananas haha.. as today was the last day of camp and we were set to descend back to base camp then to Senggigi area to our resort.

The LONG and NEVER Ending Descent

Needless to say, I needed help to go down from the knoll. I was determined to control my fear and be as steady as I could be. Hey, I spent the entire day on top "acclimatizing" and prep-talking myself to be strong! We walked on the narrow stretch overlooking the steep slopes, I was determined not to look at too much scenery lest I let the altitude fear conquer me again. And then we came back to the rocks... Ok, step by step, with my cap shielding the horizon, I could do it. And so, with the Hub's help and my own will, I, we, finally reached the campsite where we stayed the first night! Hooray!

One more hurdle. The slippery Savannah. We ladies had decided to forgo our images and use our bum to sit and slide if necessary on this stretch. Hence I wore the Hub's track pants, with my short pants inside to avoid getting scratched.

After some rest we resumed, and the next challenge began. Again I was determined to not let this stretch deter me. I took small careful steps, at times taking advantage of the slippery surface, with the aid of my stick, for advancement. It took quite a while to complete the Savannah section. Progress was slow, but it wasn't too bad, at least according to my own expectations. Nearing the end of the Savannah , I took a slide and tumbled to the grass at the side. I had just told Cheng that this step seemed safer and not as slippery, but landed on the ground just as I finished my sentence.

We finally reached POS III! Yeah the worst must be over I told myself. At the pavilion, everybody had water breaks and I checked for any injuries from the fall. None, great. But my big toes were getting painful from the friction with my shoes. I decided to wrap some plasters around them.

Off we went on our final stretch of forest trail. And then we would, through the gate, then the plantation and the information centre where we would be picked up. Surprisingly, with each step down, I felt my legs getting heavier, my knees getting stiffer and the effects had started to show. A few groups had passed us, including a young lady who had to be carried down by porters. Apparently, she had sprained her leg.

A porter walked up to us from the opposite direction, and after verifying that we were with Awenk's trekking company, supplied us with more water and bananas. We had water topped up and declined the bananas politely. He helped guide some of us further down as we were so weary. We managed to stumble to the next rest stop for lunch.

When I went to relieve myself in the bushes, I could barely squat and rise from the position.
Lunch was a hearty meal of spaghetti with tomato sauce and fruits, which we relished, after days of "chap chye".

Slumped onto our chairs and refusing to get up while at lunch.

A group photo before our last leg of our journey down to base camp.

It seemed hard to get up from our chairs... Aww... those heavy legs!

It was getting very hard for the legs to answer the command of stepping down on the trail. Even with the hiking stick, I found it hard to support myself with each step down. The strength in those thighs slowly abandoned me or rather us, ladies.
The big toe on each foot was getting more and more painful. As I relied heavily on the stick, putting most of my weight on it for support and to cushion the brake from falling, my palm was blistered.
What a torture! I could not even foretell if my thighs would support my next step and was so afraid that they would give way! I had no choice but to force myself to squat down and use my bum to overcome the steeper parts of the descent. Even balancing while standing still was a challenge.

Gradually, each of us slowed down. It started to drizzle and there was mist ahead. Luckily it was not long before the sky took pity on us and the rain stopped. It was getting late and our guide stayed with Flo, Hui and Cheng. Nemo had gone way ahead. Some elderly folks overtook us with their swift and synchronized movements using their hiking sticks. We stepped to the side to give way, in awe. I told the Hub to go ahead as I really had no more strength nor energy to walk fast in pace with him. The backpack which felt nothing on the ascent was weighing heavily on my shoulders now. I told the Hub that at the most, I would just wait to join the trio with the guide and that he would take care of me.
To my surprise, the Hub chided me and said that I should try to walk as fast as I could, and not to rely on the guide as he had already to take care of the three ladies. And that I would add to the burden and hold everyone up. Also there was no time to take a lot of rest as it was getting dark. We had to go down before it was complete darkness or it would be dangerous! Grudgingly I listened and plodded on as much and fast as I could, but in a trance state of down, down, balance, down, down....

Turned out that he was right in this logic. We took one short water break at probably POS Extra and finally emerged from the Senaru trail, through the gate and reached the small kampung. Nemo was already there, waiting for us. I was really astonished at her speed. Salute!

We sat at the bench waiting for the rest to join us. By this time it was already evening. It must be around 6pm. We rested and took some photos. The kitties and doggies around the hut got friendly and cosy with us :) Slowly it was getting darker and chillier. An old lady started to feed her cats... and the dogs :) So happy to see them living together.

By this time the kampung had been lighted up. It was really getting very dark. A few groups emerged from the forest, but none were our members. I needed to pee again. It's really very very hard to navigate some gradual steps to a secluded spot to pee. To squat was now an action I could not do, without experiencing very torturous sensations running through my body.

Finally! We walked under this signage again!

Waiting for the rest to join us.

The dogs and cats were simply friendly. 

We saw lights and voices. Must be them!
But yet again, disappointed when we saw it was a group of young men. Speaking in Cantonese, they prepared to pitch some tents in a part of a clearing. One of them told us they saw our friends, whom they had walked past.

It was really getting dark, and the hut had been lit up.

It was really dark now. And the three of us started to fear for their safety.
Another faint light. Nemo and the Hub went to check it out. Finally! It was them! Kareem our guide, carrying two bag packs in front in addition to his own on his back. What a hero! Haha! We were glad to meet up again!

Ah Cheng told Kareem half laughingly but in seriousness that we would need a motorbike rescue. Kareem agreed but told us that it would only be possible after we hiked a little further down the dirt road! He had probably already made this arrangement as he made a call when their group reached ours. By this time, a gradual slope was a huge challenge to our incapacitated states. Any jerk in the thigh that gave way would send us tumbling down.

Kareem helped Hui and Flo down the slope first. Hui had a fall on the way down in the forest. She would also tell us later that she had seen scorpion-like little creatures while kneel-falling in the forest, in addition to an encounter with a snake that Kareem got rid of while on this stretch of the path to the waiting motorbikes.

After sending each one down, Kareem would return to help the rest who were still walking down. The Hub, Nemo and I were making our way slowly down the slope that we once walked up effortlessly past the plantations.

Finally, I saw a vehicle light shining brightly at me. It was my turn for the motorbike rescue!
When I took the pillion seat, I was very careful not to burn my leg again, which I did during a ride in Cambodia. I realised it was gonna be a very steep downward gradient ahead. Oh goodness! When our rescuer sped down, I had to wrap my arms around his waist very tightly and closed my eyes! When we finally reached the pick-up that was to pick us, I saw Hui, Flo and Cheng already on it. Getting up the pick-up was no easy feat. We really had to work our bums to climb onto it. In a little while,  Nemo and the Hub reached us with Kareem. What strong people they were!

Back To Base Camp

Mr Awenk was very happy when he saw us reach his lodge. He welcomed us and despite our dirty and smelly states, he told us to go ahead and step on the clean floors of his lodge hallway. Reluctantly, I parted with my hiking stick made in and from nature. It was my comrade for two days. Leaving it on the back of the pickup, I hoped that it would be of good use to the next Rinjani trekker.

Our arrival time at base camp was way beyond that scheduled. We were supposed to have had a Senaru Village tour after our descent, before the next journey to Senggigi.

Mr Awenk was so kind to provide dinner (that was not on the itinerary) for us . He offered us a badly needed cold drink and the usual simple home cooked "buffet".

Dinner after our hard trek to and back from Rinjani Crater Rim. Photo by Awenk Adventures.

We gave well deserved tips to the porters, the motorbike "rescuers", and of course Mr Kareem, our ever so dependable guide. He really saw us to our safety, even though he was fasting during this period of Ramadan.

As we tucked into our dinner and made jokes and laughed at ourselves together with Awenk, another group of trekkers was getting ready for their turn on the next day's adventure.
We had ended ours with extreme soreness in both legs and bruised toes.

Those were the nails that was not bathed for two days, two nights...
(Photo taken at hotel, before the first bath after).

My toes suffered (VERY) much.

After dinner and some rest - it was probably nine in the evening by then I supposed. Mr Awenk drove us downhill from Senaru to Senggigi where comfort awaited us at the Santosa Villas and Resorts. We brought our luggage and dragged our dirty and smelly selves into his car, together with fond memories of our unforgettable three days two nights adventure on Mount Rinjani, Senaru Crater Rim.

What further awaited us, which we would least expect, were flights of steps to our rooms in the resort. Ouch! 

Our climbing didn't seem to end.



*Sincere gratitude to Mr Awenk for being so affable and accommodating to our group, Mr Awenk's team of guide - Mr Kareem, and porters, including the motorcycle rescuers - for carrying our load and taking good care of us throughout the trip, despite fasting for the last (or two) day(s).

And also to the Hub for helping me throughout the journey, hand holding me and slowing down to help me whenever he could. Last but not least, all my friends who have had an eventful and challenging journey on this trip with me - they were simply wonderful company!*

This article was written one year after the journey, travelled in June 2016.